Evolution of Physical Oceanography
Bruce A. Warren and Carl Wunsch (Editors)
Cover of Evolution of Physical Oceanography, edited by Bruce A. Warren and Carl Wunsch. (Image courtesy of MIT Press.)
Evolution of Physical Oceanography was created to mark the career of Henry M. Stommel, the leading physical oceanographer of the 20th Century and a longtime MIT faculty member. The authors of the different chapters were asked to describe the evolution of their subject over the history of physical oceanography, and to provide a survey of the state-of-the-art of their subject as of 1980. Many of the chapters in this textbook are still up-to-date descriptions of active scientific fields, and all of them are important historical records. This textbook is made available courtesy of The MIT Press.
Textbook Components
| TEXTBOOK CONTENTS | FILES |
|---|---|
| Front-End Matter Acknowledgements, Permissions, and Contributors Information on Henry Stommel Preface Introduction References |
Acknowledgements, Permissions, and Contributors (PDF) Information on Henry Stommel (PDF) Preface (PDF) Introduction (PDF) References (PDF) |
| Part 1: General Ocean Circulation | |
| 1: Deep Circulation of the World Ocean, Bruce A. Warren, pp. 6-41 1.1 Introduction, p. 6 1.2 Historical Development of Ideas about the Deep Circulation, pp. 7-10 1.3 A Dynamical Framework, pp. 11-14 1.4 Sources of Deep Water, pp. 15-25 1.5 Deep Western Boundary Currents in the World Ocean, pp. 26-37 1.6 Why Is There a Deep Thermohaline Circulation At All?, pp. 38-39 Notes, pp. 40-41 |
Chapter 1 - complete (PDF - 4.4 MB) Chapter 1 - sections: 1.1 - 1.4 (PDF - 2.6 MB) 1.5 - Notes (PDF - 1.9 MB) |
| 2: The Water Masses of the World Ocean: Some Results of a Fine-Scale Census, L.V. Worthington, pp. 42-69 2.1 Introduction, p. 42 2.2 Methods of Describing the Oceans, p. 43 2.3 The World Water Masses As They Exist in the Second Half of This Century, pp. 44-56 2.4 The Formation of Water Masses, pp. 57-59 Appendix: Census of World-Ocean Water Masses with Division by Bivariate (C x 0/00) Classes and Rank by Volume, pp. 60-69 |
Chapter 2 - complete (PDF - 3.0 MB) Chapter 2 - sections: 2.1 - 2.3 (PDF - 1.9 MB) 2.4 - Appendix (PDF - 1.2 MB) |
| 3: On the Mid-Depth Circulation of the World Ocean, Joseph L. Reid, pp. 70-111 3.1 Introduction, p. 70 3.2 The Circulation of the Upper Waters and Their Contribution to the Mid-Depths, pp. 70-71 3.3 The Use of Geostrophy, pp. 72-73 3.4 The Mid-Depth Circulation of the Atlantic Ocean from Core Analysis and Vertical Geostrophic Shear, pp. 74-78 3.5 Studies of Total Transport and Layers, pp. 79-80 3.6 Mid-Depth Studies Using Isopycnal Analysis, pp. 81-84 3.7 Comparison of Relative Geostrophic Flow at Mid-Depth with Numerical Models of Transport, pp. 85-90 3.8 Mid-Depth Patterns in the World Ocean, pp. 91-108 3.9 Comparison of the Maps of Shear Field and Characteristics, p. 109 3.10 Conclusion, pp. 110-111 |
Chapter 3 - complete (PDF - 5.0 MB) Chapter 3 - sections: 3.1 - 3.5 (PDF - 1.5 MB) 3.6 - 3.10 (PDF - 3.6 MB) |
| 4: The Gulf Stream System,
N.P. Fofonoff, pp. 112-139 4.1 Introduction, p. 112 4.2 The Gulf Stream System, p. 113 4.3 The Florida Current, pp. 113-122 4.4 The Gulf Stream, pp. 123-132 4.5 The North Atlantic Current, pp. 133-136 4.6 Summary and Conclusions, pp. 137-139 |
Chapter 4 - complete (PDF - 3.5 MB) Chapter 4 - sections: 4.1 - 4.3 (PDF - 1.6 MB) 4.4 - 4.6 (PDF - 1.9 MB) |
| 5: Dynamics of Large-Scale Ocean Circulation, George Veronis, pp. 140-183 5.1 Introduction and Summary, pp. 140-141 5.2 The Equations for Large-Scale Dynamics, pp. 142-143 5.3 The Quasi-Geostrophic Equations and the B-Plane, pp. 144-146 5.4 Ekman Layers, pp. 147-148 5.5 Steady Linear Models of the Wind-Driven Circulation, pp. 149-152 5.6 Preliminary Nonlinear Considerations, pp. 153-156 5.7 Why Does the Gulf Stream Leave the Coast?, p. 157 5.8 Thermohaline Circulation, pp. 158-163 5.9 Free Waves for a Constant-Depth Two-Layer Ocean on the B-Plane, p. 164 5.10 Effect of Bottom Topography on Quasi-Geostrophic Waves, pp. 165-168 5.11 Baroclinic Instability, pp. 169-173 5.12 Effect of Nonlinearity and Turbulence, pp. 174-182 Notes, p. 183 |
Chapter 5 - complete (PDF - 5.0 MB) Chapter 5 - sections: 5.1 - 5.7 (PDF - 2.1 MB) 5.8 - Notes (PDF - 3.0 MB) |
| 6: Equatorial Currents: Observations and Theory, Ants Leetmaa, Julian P. McCreary, Jr., and Dennis W. Moore, pp. 184-197 6.1 Introduction, p. 184 6.2 Observations, pp. 185-187 6.3 Theories, pp. 188-194 6.4 Discussion, pp. 195-197 |
Chapter 6 - complete (PDF - 1.5 MB) Chapter 6 - sections: 6.1 - 6.2 (PDF) 6.3 - 6.4 (PDF - 1.1 MB) |
| 7: On Estuarine and Continental-Shelf Circulation in the Middle Atlantic Bight, Robert C. Beardsley and William C. Boicourt, pp. 198-235 7.1 Introduction, p. 198 7.2 Estuarine Circulation in the Middle Atlantic Bight, pp. 199-206 7.3 Continental-Shelf Circulation, pp. 207-229 Appendix: Annual Air-Sea Interaction Cycles and Mean Runoff for the Middle Atlantic Bight, pp. 230-232 Notes, pp. 233-234 |
Chapter 7 - complete (PDF - 4.4 MB) Chapter 7 - sections: 7.1 - 7.3 (PDF - 4.1 MB) Appendix - Notes (PDF) |
| Part 2: Physical Processes in Oceanography | |
| 8: Small-Scale Mixing Processes, J.S. Turner, pp. 236-263 8.1 Introduction, p. 236 8.2 Preliminary Discussion of Various Mechanisms, pp. 237-239 8.3 Vertical Mixing in the Upper Layers of the Ocean, pp. 240-244 8.4 Mixing in the Interior of the Ocean, pp. 245-257 8.5 Mixing near the Bottom of the Ocean, pp. 258-263 |
Chapter 8 - complete (PDF - 3.5 MB) Chapter 8 - sections: 8.1 - 8.3 (PDF - 1.2 MB) 8.4 - 8.5 (PDF - 2.4 MB) |
| 9: Internal Waves and Small-Scale Processes, Walter Munk, pp. 264-291 9.1 Introduction, pp. 264-267 9.2 Layered Ocean, p. 268 9.3 Continuously Stratified Ocean, pp. 269-270 9.4 Turning Depths and Turning Latitudes, pp. 271-272 9.5 Shear, pp. 273-274 9.6 Resonant Interactions, p. 275 9.7 Breaking, pp. 276-278 9.8 Ocean Fine Structure and Microstructure, pp. 279-282 9.9 An Inconclusive Discussion, pp. 283-289 9.10 Conclusion, p. 290 Notes, pp. 290-291 |
Chapter 9 - complete (PDF - 2.7 MB) Chapter 9 - sections: 9.1 - 9.6 (PDF - 1.4 MB) 9.7 - Notes (PDF - 1.5 MB) |
| 10: Long Waves and Ocean Tides, Myrl C. Hendershott, pp. 292-341 10.1 Introduction, p. 292 10.2 Astronomical Tide-Generating Forces, pp. 293-294 10.3 Laplace's Tidal Equations (LTE) and the Long-Wave Equation, pp. 295-296 10.4 Long Waves in the Ocean, pp. 297-316 10.5 The Ocean Surface Tide, pp. 317-328 10.6 Internal Tides, pp. 329-338 10.7 Tidal Studies and the Rest of Oceanography, pp. 339-341 |
Chapter 10 - complete (PDF - 4.6 MB) Chapter 10 - sections: 10.1 - 10.4 (PDF - 2.4 MB) 10.5 - 10.7 (PDF - 2.3 MB) |
| 11: Low-Frequency Variability of the Sea, Carl Wunsch, pp. 342-275 11.1 Introduction, pp. 342-345 11.2 The Field of Variability of the Ocean, pp. 346-372 11.3 Summary and Conclusions, pp. 373-375 |
Chapter 11 - complete (PDF - 3.4 MB) Chapter 11 - sections: 11.1 - 11.2 (PDF - 3.3 MB) 11.3 (PDF) |
| 12: Some Varieties of Biological Oceanography, J.H. Steele, pp. 376-383 12.1 Introduction, p. 376 12.2 Space and Time Scales of Variation, pp. 377-378 12.3 Ecological Variations, pp. 379-380 12.4 Discussion, pp. 381-383 |
Chapter 12 - complete (PDF) Chapter 12 - sections: 12.1 - 12.2 (PDF) 12.3 - 12.4 (PDF) |
| 13: The Amplitude of Convection, Willem V.R. Malkus, pp. 384-395 13.1 Introduction, p. 384 13.2 Basic Boussinesq Description, p. 385 13.3 Initial Motions, p. 386 13.4 Quantitative Theories for High Rayleigh Number, pp. 387-388 13.5 The Amplitude of Turbulent Convection from Stability Criteria, pp. 389-394 |
Chapter 13 - complete (PDF - 1.0 MB) Chapter 13 - sections: 13.1 - 13.3 (PDF) 13.4 - 13.5 (PDF) |
| Part 3: Techniques of Investigation | |
| 14: Ocean Instruments and Experimental Design, D. James Baker, Jr., pp. 396-433 14.1 Observations and the Impact of New Instruments, pp. 396-397 14.2 Instrument Development: Some Principles and History, pp. 398-401 14.3 Examples of Modern Ocean Instruments, pp. 402-428 14.4 Ocean Experiment Design, pp. 429-433 |
Chapter 14 - complete (PDF - 4.8 MB) Chapter 14 - sections: 14.1 - 14.2 (PDF) 14.3 - 14.4 (PDF - 4.0 MB) |
| 15: Geochemical Tracers and Ocean Circulation, W.S. Broecker, pp. 434-461 15.1 Introduction, p. 434 15.2 Water-Transport Tracers, pp. 435-447 15.3 Water-Mass Tracers, p. 448 15.4 Modeling Tracer Data, p. 448 15.5 Current Applications, p. 449 15.6 Ventilation of the Deep Sea, pp. 450-455 15.7 Ventilation of the Main Oceanic Thermocline, p. 456 15.8 Formation of Deep Waters, pp. 457-458 15.9 Vertical Mixing Rates, pp. 459-461 |
Chapter 15 - complete (PDF - 2.7 MB) Chapter 15 - sections: 15.1 - 15.5 (PDF - 1.6 MB) 15.6 - 15.9 (PDF - 1.1 MB) |
| 16: The Origin and Development of Laboratory Models and Analogues of the Ocean Circulation, Alan J. Faller, pp. 462-480 16.1 A Brief Philosophy of Laboratory Experiments, p. 462 16.2 Introduction, pp. 463-464 16.3 The Experiments of W.S. von Arx, p. 465 16.4 The SAF Model, pp. 466-467 16.5 Experiments with Rotating Covers, pp. 468-471 16.6 A Variety of Interesting Experiments, pp. 472-477 16.7 Concluding Remarks, pp. 477-480 |
Chapter 16 - complete (PDF - 2.1 MB) Chapter 16 - sections: 16.1 - 16.4 (PDF) 16.5 - 16.7 (PDF - 1.4 MB) |
| Part 4: Ocean and Atmosphere | |
| 17: Air-Sea Interaction, H. Charnock, pp. 482-503 17.1 Introduction, p. 482 17.2 The Surface Layer, pp. 483-485 17.3 The Lower Boundary, pp. 486-489 17.4 Waves, pp. 490-494 17.5 The Atmospheric Boundary Layer, pp. 495-503 |
Chapter 17 - complete (PDF - 2.1 MB) Chapter 17 - sections: 17.1 - 17.3 (PDF) 17.4 - 17.5 (PDF - 1.3 MB) |
| 18: Oceanic Analogues of Large-Scale Atmospheric Motions, Jule G. Charney and Glenn R. Flierl, pp. 504-549 18.1 Introduction, p. 504 18.2 The General Circulation of Oceans and Atmospheres Compared, p. 505 18.3 The Transient Motions, pp. 506-507 18.4 The Geostrophic Formalism, pp. 508-519 18.5 Linear Quasi-Geostrophic Dynamics of a Stratified Ocean, pp. 520-524 18.6 Friction in Quasi-Geostrophic Systems, pp. 525-528 18.7 Nonlinear Motions, pp. 529-543 18.8 Summary Remarks, pp. 544-545 Appendix: The Quasi-Geostrophic Equations, pp. 546-547 Notes, pp. 548-549 |
Chapter 18 - complete (PDF - 4.8 MB) Chapter 18 - sections: 18.1 - 18.5 (PDF - 2.4 MB) 18.6 - Notes (PDF - 2.6 MB) |
